Happenings June 2025

June 2025

Planting and Growing a Perennial Garden with Native Plants

Strawberries Are Always in Season

Meet the 2025 Pollinator of the Year: The Squash Bee

4-H Food Systems Course Brings Food Truck to Teens

Water Safety Tips Keep Summer Fun and Relaxing

Celebrate Caribbean American Heritage Month with a Haitian-inspired recipe

Plant Your Perennial Garden with Native Plants

by Laurie Cuccinello, Master Gardener Volunteer

Perennials offer a large variety of colors, textures, and scents for any garden. There are perennials for every month so you can see a constant beautiful change from season to season, year-after-year.

Whether you’re designing a landscape from scratch or adding a few flowers to fill a garden a little research goes a long way. The best perennial garden should have flowers blooming from early spring to late fall. Their deep and fibrous roots can help prevent soil erosion. Your garden should provide an environment for birds, butterflies, good insects and other pollinators. A perennial garden can provide cut flowers to bring into the home. If your plants are happy, with the proper conditions, you will have a garden that will last for many years. And best of all, it will be a place for you to enjoy with family and friends.

Perennial plants emerge from the earth just in time to fill gaps after spring bulbs finish blooming. These plants die back in cold weather or drought then sprout again every spring, year-after-year. Perennials are the backbone of any garden. They are classified as herbaceous plants, meaning they are not woody and don’t grow twigs or have bark. Most perennials have a short bloom period, so choosing ones that have beautiful foliage helps to make a statement in your garden after the flowers are gone.

When deciding to plant a perennial garden think about what you would want to achieve and how much time you must spend on maintenance. Consider plant bloom times, heights and colors. And most importantly consider what each plant needs. Even native plants need to be planted in the right conditions to thrive, and when you do so they will need little maintenance. There are many beautiful native perennials to choose from. Here are 16 that are a great option for your perennial garden. And they attract pollinators—a bonus!

Spring-Early Summer
For an early burst of color try creeping Phloxes which bloom mid – late spring. You’ll find Phlox species for both shade and sun. Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea) adds some cheerful yellow to the spring garden and thrives in part shade. And our native cranesbill (Geranium maculatum) is a star in a shady spot. Coral bells (Heuchera americana) is a great native perennial with tall airy flowers attractive to hummingbirds. They bloom from late spring to early summer, and the foliage provides a gorgeous ground cover

Summer
You have a wider variety to choose from in mid-season. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a great starter for mid – season as these orange blooms go until late summer. Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata) is a tall mid-border bloomer with showy flower heads in Summer. These flowers have long tubular throats with sweet nectar that attract butterflies, day-flying sphinx moths, and hummingbirds. Blazing star (Liatris spicata) is an easy perennial for summer bloom, and its purple spikes of flowers are a pollinator magnet. Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis) blooms early summer, providing tall spikes of white flowers (some varieties have maroon foliage for a long season of interest). Great blue lobelia’s (Lobelia siphilitica) striking blue flowers start early summer and continue into late summer if conditions are right (try deadheading flower spikes unless you want to save seed). New York and New England asters bloom late summer until fall and their clouds of purple or pink flowers are eye catching. Black- and Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia sp.) come in a variety of species and cultivated varieties providing a wide season of bloom, making them a wonderful, bright addition to the perennial garden. Bee Balm (Monarda sp.) bloom all summer into fall and attract hummingbirds.

For gardeners wanting to extend the season into fall there are other options, many of these late season bloomers start midsummer creating a garden full of color. Joe-pye-weed, New York Ironweed, New York and New England Aster and goldenrod all bloom from late summer into fall. For a long-lasting all season plant, coreopsis is the go-to perennial. Its blooming season lasts from summer until the first frost.

Doing a site assessment can help you determine what plants you should purchase. Do your research: they all have preference for light exposure, soil and drainage types. On seed packets and plant tags you will be able to find out the most important information for your chosen plant’s success. Labels will give you the information for bloom time, height of plant, spacing needed between plants, soil and sunlight requirements.

Perennial gardens require some care and maintenance. Adding compost improves soil texture if your soil is heavy or compacted. Mulch helps to suppress weed growth and helps to protect the plant during dormancy. Though mulch helps with weed control, you will still need to keep up with weeding. Once established, you may divide many perennials every three years. And “deadheading” the practice of removing spent flowers, will encourage some plant species to rebloom.

With all of these lovely native perennials to choose from, creativity comes in planning. Place taller plants are in the back with lower plants throughout. Choose color pallets that compliment or contrast. As your familiarity with the plants grow, and you see which ones succeed, you can divide and move plants around to get your garden just right!

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Strawberries Are Always in Season

by Maris Howell, Master Gardener Volunteer

Strawberry jam, strawberry shortcake, sliced strawberries on ice cream? Sounds delicious. Strawberries are one of the delights of June. They aren’t all that hard to grow. With a little knowledge and planning, you can grow your own.

June-bearing cultivar strawberries are often available at garden centers and nurseries at this time of year. But did you know you could have fresh strawberries through much of the growing season? Yes. Perhaps less commonly known, day-neutral strawberries can grow from June through October.

Strawberries are the most widely grown fruit crops in the world and remarkably contain more vitamin C than oranges. June-bearing cultivars of strawberries bear fruit in June and July. Their flowering, and thus fruiting, are guided by the length of the day. Day-neutral cultivars, on the other hand, have a growing season that can last from late spring into fall. There are key differences that are important to know for anyone wanting to grow this delicious red berry.

Both need full sun, soil with good drainage, and a pH between 5.5 and 7 to thrive. Strawberries do not tolerate soil pH extremes and should be amended the year prior if necessary (visit CCE Putnam’s “Healthy Soils” website page for information about soil testing at cceputnamcounty.org/gardening/healthy-soils. For both types of strawberries, it is best to plant in early spring, keeping them well-watered and properly weeded. Drip irrigation can be especially advantageous, delivering water to the roots while keeping the leaves dry, reducing disease.

June-bearing strawberry cultivars are reliably winter hardy throughout New York. Some cultivars that yield well include Earliglow, Northeaster, Sable, Allstar, Cavendish, Jewel and Lateglow. They produce firm fruit with good freezing quality. For a detailed list of nurseries carrying strawberries visit blogs.cornell.edu/berrynurseries/strawberries/. Request they be shipped in late April or early May; also note they are generally sold in bundles of 25.

The “matted row” system is a reliable and common way to maintain June-bearers. Set plants 12 to 24 inches apart in rows that are 48 inches apart. Pluck off the flowers in the first season to encourage vegetative growth. The plants will produce side stems known as runners; keeping 6 to 8 runners per plant is ideal. Allow the runners to fill out a strip about 12 to 15 inches wide. Fruit can be harvested from these rows in the following years. Mow or clip strawberries immediately after harvest to a height of 3 inches, removing cut leaves and debris. That may seem extreme, but this practice stimulates new growth and removes dead and diseased foliage. In the Fall, cover plantings with 2 inches deep of mulch, such as straw, to prevent injury from cold temperatures. Remove this mulch in early Spring. Lather-Rinse-Repeat!

Day-neutral strawberries will flower and produce fruit anytime temperatures are between 35 and 85 degrees. The name day-neutral refers to the fact that flowering and fruiting is not sensitive to day length. Successful cultivar options include Tribute, Tristar and Seascape, which produce small- to medium-sized fruit topping at around a 1-inch diameter. They produce runners less profusely than traditional June bearers, making matted row management impractical. One option is to plant day-neutral strawberry plants close together, around 5 to 9 inches apart, in rows 42 inches apart. Remove runners for the entire season for increased yield. They can also be planted in a staggered double row which will help reduce competition and increase productivity. For this method, space plants 10 to 18 inches apart. They will perform best when mulched with straw immediately after planting. In addition to controlling weeds, mulching can help reduce rain splash-up. Keeping leaves dry discourage diseases like Gray Mold that can potentially build up over the growing season. Day-neutrals can be grown as perennials, but in northern climates, because of the onset of disease and weed pressure, they are best grown as annuals, meaning you replant them each year. Remove flowers for several weeks after planting so plants can become established without premature fruiting. If grown as perennials, they usually max out at 2-3 years, with decreasing yields as the seasons pass.

There are various pros and cons to planting each type in your home garden. Day-neutral strawberries produce a higher yield, and the yield is more spread out over the season. This is well-suited for the gardener who wants fresh strawberries over a longer period of time. But they need to be replanted every year. June-bearing on the other hand can be grown reliably for 3-5 years after being planted until they eventually become unproductive. June-bearers are harvested intensely for 3-4 weeks in late June and early July so this is well suited for the home gardener who wants large batches of strawberries at that given time, perhaps someone wanting to make strawberry jam or a family-favorite strawberry shortcake recipe. Day-neutrals will require more maintenance throughout the growing season, so gardeners with time constraints should keep this in mind. However, day neutrals can be grown in containers and hanging baskets for those who are restricted in yard space. June-bearers are not as reliably grown in containers. The choice is up to you, any interested home gardener can try both to see what works best for them and their needs.

References:
Eames-Sheavly, Marcia, et al. Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Home. Cornell Cooperative Extension, 2003, pages 54-64.
Eames-Sheavly, Marcia and Pritts, Marvin. Growing Dayneutral Strawberries in the Home Garden. Cornell Cooperative Extension Chemung County, 1994, pages 1-2.
“Growing Day-Neutral Strawberries” YouTube, Minnesota State Horticultural Society, 26 January 2021, “Healthy Soils,” Cornell Cooperative Extension Putnam County, 28 November 2023.
“Nursery Guide for Berry and Small Fruit Crops,” Cornell CALS - College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, accessed 12 November 2024.

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Meet the 2025 Pollinator of the Year: The Squash Bee

from NC State Extension and Pollinator Partnership, adapted by Rachael Paradise, Communications Coordinator

In June, we celebrate pollinators with Pollinator Week taking place June 16 through 22. This year, the squash bee has been named Pollinator of the Year. Here’s a little bit about this busy pollinator and how you can help them thrive in your home vegetable garden.

Squash bees (Eucera (Peponapis) pruinosa) occur throughout much of the United States and Mexico, where they are important pollinators of plants in the genus Cucurbita. This includes summer squash, winter squash, zucchini, pumpkins and many gourds (but not cucumbers). Squash bees are most easily recognized by their behavior of visiting these flowers starting around sunrise, before other bees are active.

Squash bees can be confused with honey bees, which they resemble in size and color. In comparison, however, squash bees are larger, bulkier and have longer antennae and rounder faces. In females, the hind legs are another distinguishing feature. Worker honey bees have smooth, flat hind legs onto which they pack compact balls of pollen, while female squash bees have very fuzzy hind legs which may be covered all over in loose pollen.

Male and female squash bees can be distinguished by the presence of extensive fuzzy, pollen-carrying hairs on the hind legs of the female (males do not carry pollen), and a yellow spot on the face of the male (females’ faces are entirely dark).

Squash bees, like most of our native bees, are solitary, ground-nesting bees. This means that they do not live in a hive or colony like the more familiar honey bees and bumble bees. Instead, each female squash bee digs her own nest in the soil and collects pollen and nectar to feed her own offspring.

Squash bees gather pollen exclusively from plants in the genus Cucurbita. These flowers open near dawn, and squash bees begin foraging around the same time. They continue visiting the flowers until they wilt around mid-day. It takes only 6 to 10 squash-bee visits to fully pollinate a female squash flower. Squash bees can typically pollinate a plant (or a field of plants) before other bees have even begun foraging for the day. Although honey bees and bumble bees can be effective pollinators for squash, they are superfluous in the presence of squash bees.

Because squash bees nest in the ground, often right under the squash plants, they may be sensitive to soil disturbance. The female bees usually build their nest cells 6 to 12 inches underground, and the next generation of bees spends most of the year sealed inside those cells.

How You Can Help
According to Pollinator Partnership, gardeners can support squash bees, other native pollinators, and the pollination systems they sustain by:

• Planting squash: Grow summer or winter squash to provide forage and enjoy the fruits of your partnership with squash bees!
• Buying local and seasonal: Support farmers who grow squash and other crops sustainably.
• Reducing or eliminating pesticide use: Especially important during bloom periods.
• Planting native flowers: Boost biodiversity and support a range of wild pollinators.
• Reducing soil disturbance: Avoid deep tilling of soil and other soil disturbance.
• Participating in community science: Record squash bee sightings on iNaturalist.org to help track populations.

Authors: Steven Frank, professor and NC State Extension specialist, Entomology and Plant Pathology, and Elsa Youngsteadt, NC State Extension research associate, Entomology

Resources:
Squash Bees | NC State Extension Publications
Pollinator Partnership 

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4-H Food Systems Course Brings Food Truck to Teens

by Ruby Roch-Fienberg, Ag & Food Systems Coordinator, and Brandy Keenan, 4-H Educator

This spring, sixth-grade students at North Salem Middle School got a hands-on lesson in creative solutions to food waste and food insecurity, thanks to longtime 4-H volunteer Anne-Marie Sasso’s engaging 4-H Food Systems course. As part of the curriculum, the ‘Farm to Truck’ initiative food truck visited the school, offering students a unique opportunity to explore how innovative approaches can make a difference in their communities.

The 4-H Food Systems course, developed in partnership with New York State 4-H and Cornell Cooperative Extension, empowers youth to understand how food travels from farm to table and the impact of modern food production on both communities and the environment. Through interactive activities and real-world experiences like the food truck visit, students learned practical strategies for reducing food waste and addressing food insecurity—key issues that affect both households and the broader community.

Anne-Marie’s grant-funded course encourages students to become active participants in building more resilient and sustainable food systems, inspiring the next generation of food system leaders. The school’s FACS teacher and principal are so impressed by the curriculum that they are looking to repeat it next year, broaden it and teach it to upper grades, specifically eighth graders.

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Water Safety Tips to Keep Summer Fun and Relaxing

from Jodi Schulz, Michigan State University Extension, adapted by Rachael Paradise, Communications Coordinator

Summer is just about here. Students and teachers have started to count down the days until school is out. Preparing yards for outdoor activities is well underway. And families are planning their excursions to vacation spots where they can ride the waves, splash in a pool or boat on cool lake waters. This brings us to the important issue of water safety.

Michigan State University Extension offers the following tips to keep kids (and adults) safe while enjoying fun in and on the water this summer:

• Learn to swim. Being a strong swimmer is a must. Drowning rates are highest among children aged 1-4 years. If a child is missing, check the water first. Accidental drownings often happen when children have been missing for less than 5 minutes.
• Take a friend along. Even though you may be a good swimmer, you never know when you may need help. Having friends around is safer and just more fun!
• Know your limits. Watch out for the "toos" — too tired, too cold, too far from safety, too much sun, too much hard activity.
• Try to swim in supervised (lifeguard on duty) areas only and follow all signs and warnings. If you’re swimming in areas where there is no lifeguard, scan the body of water constantly. If your family is out at the lake, river or pool, always be conscious of what’s going on. A good rule of thumb is to scan the water every 20 seconds and be able to reach the water in 10 seconds. Weaker swimmers of all ages should use life jackets. It’s tempting to put inflatable arm floaties on children when they are swimming. But it’s important to note that floaties are not substitutes for life vests. While they’re popular to wear, they can provide a false sense of safety.
• Wear a life jacket when boating, jet skiing, water skiing, rafting or fishing. Wear U.S. Coast Guard-approved life vests. Make sure adults and children are wearing appropriately sized vests and that the vest type is appropriate for the intended activity. A life jacket that fits well is secure, comfortable, and adjustable. For more information about the types of life vests and the laws that govern their use, visit the U.S. Coast Guard’s website.
• Stay alert to currents. They can change quickly. If you get caught in a strong current, don't fight it. Swim parallel to the shore until you have passed through it. Near piers, jetties (lines of big rocks), small dams and docks, the current gets unpredictable and could knock you around. If you find it hard to move around, head to shore. Learn to recognize and watch for dangerous waves and signs of rip currents — water that is a weird color, really choppy, foamy or filled with pieces of stuff.
• Keep an eye on the weather. If you spot bad weather like dark clouds or lightning, pack up and take the fun inside.
• Don’t mess around in the water. Pushing or dunking your friends can get easily out of hand.
• Don’t dive into shallow water. If you don't know how deep the water is, don't dive.
• Don’t float where you can't swim. Keep checking to see if the water is too deep or if you are too far away from the shore or the poolside. If you have a pool at your home, keep a life preserver and a shepherd’s crook or other rescue hook near the pool. Also, bring a cell phone to the pool in case there is an emergency. You can store the phone in a waterproof pouch to avoid any accidental water damage.

Accidents happen fast. It’s always a good thing to be prepared for when the unimaginable happens. If you haven’t already, consider taking a first aid and CPR course.

For more swimming safety information, visit the CDC and American Red Cross websites.

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Celebrate Caribbean American Heritage Month with a Haitian-inspired recipe

submitted by Josephine Quiocho, Nutrition Educator, from SNAP-Ed Massachusetts

Haitian-style Chicken and Rice

Ingredients

• 2 cups brown rice
• 2 large bell peppers
• 1 large onion
• ½ small serrano pepper
• 2 limes
• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 2 Tablespoons canola oil
• ¾ cup orange juice
• ¼ cup water
• ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

Materials

• Cutting board
• Large skillet
• Measuring cups
• Measuring spoons
• Medium pot
• Rubber spatula
• Sharp knife
• Small bowl

Instructions
1. Cook brown rice following package directions. While rice cooks, make chicken and veggies. 2. Rinse and dice bell peppers. Peel, rinse, and dice onion. Rinse and mince chili pepper. 3. Rinse limes and cut in half. In a small bowl, squeeze juice. Discard seeds. 4. Trim any excess fat from chicken. Cut into 1-inch cubes. 5. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add chicken cubes. Cook until brown on all sides, about 3–4 minutes. If needed, brown in 2 batches. 6. Add onion, chili pepper, and bell peppers. Cook for 3 more minutes. 7. Stir in lime juice, orange juice, water, thyme, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Cook uncovered until chicken is cooked through, about 15–20 minutes. If sauce is not yet thick and syrupy, turn heat to medium-high. Simmer, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. 8. Serve over brown rice.

Chef’s Notes
- Add color and nutrition. Top chicken with diced avocado or more diced bell peppers.
- Try different whole grains. Serve over whole grain couscous, barley, or quinoa instead of brown rice.
- You can also use cubed pork loin or boneless, skinless chicken breasts instead of chicken thighs. Cook for same amount of time and at same temperature.
- If you need to multiply the recipe, add only enough liquid to cover the chicken while it cooks. If doubling, use about 1¼ cups orange juice and ⅓ cup water.

Source: Massachusetts SNAP-Ed

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Last updated June 1, 2025