Happenings February 2026

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February 2026

  • The Cornell Barn and Education Center: A Vision Coming to Life
  • Groundhogs: The Pudgy Pest of Growers Everywhere
  • Wildlife Boxes Offer Prime Real Estate for Nesting Birds
  • Bug of the Month: The Snow Flea
  • 4-H News: NatureCraft Club Makes Paper
  • Tilly Tally Spots 159 Birds During Winter Bird Count
  • Celebrate Valentine’s Day with a Delicious Dessert

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    The Cornell Barn and Education Center: A Vision Coming to Life

    Construction at Tilly Foster Farm is moving fast, but we still need funding to complete the building which will provide:

    • Expanded classrooms and horticulture lab 
    • State-of-the-art agricultural and environmental education spaces
    • Workforce development training
    • Flexible rooms for community workshops, volunteers, and public programs
    • A home that finally matches the scale and impact of our mission

    We cannot afford to slow down — not when youth, families, farmers, educators, and the entire community are counting on this space. We must close the final funding gap now to keep the Cornell Barn on schedule and fully equipped for opening day. Without immediate support, we risk delays and rising costs. With your help, we cross the finish line.

    Your gift will prevent construction delays; ensure classrooms and labs are fully equipped; and strengthen youth, agriculture and community programs.

    Please make your tax-deductible gift today: CCE Putnam County, 1 Geneva Road, Brewster, NY 10509

    Ways to Give

    Online: Visit our donation page  and be a part of the difference we are striving to create.

    By Check: Checks should be made payable to Cornell Cooperative Extension Putnam County and mailed to our office at 1 Geneva Road, Brewster, NY 10509.

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    Groundhogs: The Pudgy Pest of Growers Everywhere

    by Rachael Paradise, Communications Coordinator

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    Let’s be honest: Whether Punxsutawney Phil sees his shadow or not, if you live where there are groundhogs, and you have a garden (or even a patch of luscious lawn), chances are you’ll be contending (nay, competing) with one of his brethren in the very near future! Marmota monax —cute, chunky and a voracious consumer of vegetation with a side of pecuniary loss.

    The groundhog (AKA woodchuck, whistle-pig, land beaver or, if you’re French Canadian, siffleux) is part of the rodent family and belongs to the group of large ground squirrels known as marmots. One may be led to believe groundhogs spend all their time on the ground—or burrowing under it— but they are pretty good climbers and can be seen in lower tree branches as well as grassy meadows.

    What’s on the Groundhog’s Plate?
    Strict herbivores, groundhogs feed on a variety of vegetables, grasses and legumes. Their preferred diet includes garden vegetables like beans, peas, carrots and berries as well as alfalfa, clover and various grasses.

    Where Does the Groundhog Live?
    Here in the Northeast, groundhogs have adapted to life in urban neighborhoods, the ‘burbs and rural areas. They can be found in yards, fields, meadows and woodland clearings. They also frequent grassy areas along roadways.

    Groundhogs are built for digging and dig they do! According to Mass Audubon, groundhogs “dig extensive burrows 2 to 6 feet deep and up to 50 feet long that contain numerous chambers with specific functions, such as for nesting or waste. Main entrances can be spotted by an adjacent mound of fresh dirt, which these animals use for observation and sun-basking. In addition, there may be as many as five other openings to the den.”

    Conflicts with Human
    We’ve established what groundhogs eat and where they live and herein lies the root of the problem—their lifestyle often conflicts with ours.

    Groundhogs can cause damage on farms, in home gardens, orchards and nurseries and around buildings, according to Penn State Extension. The destruction of crops can be costly and extensive for farmers and home gardeners alike. In addition, groundhogs are rodents that need to chew to keep their teeth trimmed, fruit trees and woody vegetation can be harmed by their gnawing. In addition, the holes they dig are hazards to farm equipment, animals and people. If they dig near a building or under a patio, they can cause structural damage and weaken foundations.

    An Ounce of Prevention
    In New York State, it is legal to “take” a groundhog for being a nuisance and/or damaging property, according to the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). “Take” simply means "to pursue, shoot, hunt, kill, capture, trap, snare or net wildlife; or perform acts that disturb or worry wildlife." Taking an animal is only suggested if other best practices do not alleviate the problem.

    A recommendation from the DEC is in the form of the acronym REPEL. For groundhogs:
    Remove food sources

    • Use fencing to cover gardens and plants
    • Pick up dropped fruit on the ground
    • Use landscaping plants that do not attract problem animals

    Eliminate cover and shelter

    • Mow grass surrounding vegetable garden and near houses or other buildings.

    Put up barriers

    • Fence in areas such as gardens and underneath decks
    • Seal entry holes that lead into the house. Ensure there are no animals inside as this can lead to worse problems.

    Excite or agitate

    • Use visual repellents such as scarecrows or lights
    • Create noise (i.e. yelling, noisemakers) - be sure to check noise ordinances in your area
    • Haze (i.e. chase away with dogs, remote control cars and planes, etc.).

    Legally remove or “take”

    • Contact a Nuisance Wildlife Control Operator (NWCO) - hire a professional to remove problem wildlife from your property.
    • Remove or "take" nuisance animals on your own in accordance with New York State laws and regulations.

    Remember, if you do decide to live trap a groundhog, you can’t just let it go on someone else’s land (public or private). It is illegal for you to move or relocate an animal off your property. Relocating an animal can create problems for neighbors, can move diseases like rabies or Lyme, and can cause unnecessary stress to the animal. This task must be handled by a licensed NWCO professional.

    Fence Them Out
    As many people discover, removing one groundhog (or even a whole family) generally means a new family will soon move in. A more permanent control method is fencing, if practical. According to Penn State Extension:

    • Fences should be at least 3 feet high and made of heavy poultry wire or 2-inch woven mesh wire. (If you are also managing for deer, make fencing 8’ for good measure).
    • To prevent groundhogs from burrowing under the fence, bury the lower edge 12 inches in the ground with the lower 6 inches bent at an L-shaped angle leading outward.
    • Fences should extend 3 to 4 feet above the ground.
    • As an additional measure, place an electric wire 4 to 5 inches off the ground and the same distance outside the fence. When connected to a fence charger, the electric wire will prevent climbing and burrowing. In some instances, a single electric wire placed 4 to 5 inches above the ground has deterred groundhogs from entering gardens. Vegetation in the vicinity of any electric fence should be removed regularly to prevent the system from shorting out.
    • Bending the top 15 inches of wire fence outward at a 45-degree angle will also prevent groundhogs from climbing over the fence.

    Fencing is best for protecting home gardens and also keeps rabbits, dogs, cats and other animals out.

    On the Plus Side
    Very often, the dens of groundhogs provide homes for other animals, including skunks and red fox that feed on mice, grasshoppers, beetles and other creatures that destroy crops. In aiding these animals, the groundhog indirectly helps the farmer. In addition to providing homes for itself and other animals, the groundhog aids in soil improvement by bringing subsoil to the surface.

    “Modifying habitat in and around homes and gardens can help deter woodchucks and can increase the effectiveness of other control techniques. Eliminating brush piles and overgrown areas reduces the amount of food and cover available, making an area less attractive to woodchucks. Unfortunately, elimination of these areas may also remove valuable habitat for other wildlife,” according to Cornell Cooperative Extension Wildlife Damage Management Program’s woodchuck fact sheet.

    Adding Humor to the Situation
    In 1883, the New Hampshire Legislative Woodchuck Committee was formed to address the nuisance of groundhogs damaging farms. Led by Rep. Charles Corning, it formally issued a published report that was both humorous and scathing, condemning groundhogs as, "not only a nuisance, but also a bore."

    As reported in the San Luis Obispo (Calif.) Morning Tribune, Dec. 1, 1883: The woodchuck "possesses some of the amenities of a higher civilization. It cleans its face after the manner of the squirrel and licks its fur after the manner of the cat. Your committee is too wise, however, to be deceived by this purely superficial observance of better habits. Contemporaneous with the ark, the woodchuck has not made any material progress in social science, and it is now too late to attempt to reform the wayward sinner.”

    Of the groundhog's hibernation they stated, “The animal, so they say, takes its bed about October 1, and becomes torpid and to all appearances dead. Unfortunately, for the farmers, this interesting habit only goes into effect at that season of the year when nobody cares a snap about the woodchuck or the clover crop.”

    While the committee and its report were satirical in tone, they addressed a real agricultural concern for 19th-century New Hampshire farmers, recommending a bounty for each groundhog dispatched. The bounty was authorized in September 1883 and reportedly resulted in over 122,000 groundhog tails being turned in over a six-month period at 10 cents a tail. This, apparently, nearly caused a state budget crisis! The bounty was repealed in 1885.

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    Wildlife Boxes Offer Prime Real Estate for Nesting Birds

    adapted by Rachael Paradise, Communications Coordinator, from articles by Cornell Lab of Ornithology and Robert A. Pierce II, University of Missouri Extension

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    Making your yard inviting to different bird species is a great way to enjoy and enhance bird watching. Identifying food, water and space are important factors in attracting birds. Suitable cover like wildlife boxes constructed for specific species will also help bring birds to your backyard oasis!

    During our Seedling Sale in February, CCE Putnam and Putnam Soil and Water Conservation District will be selling wildlife boxes for house wrens, owls, hawks, Eastern bluebirds, bats and wood ducks. Online ordering opens Feb. 17. You will find the link on our website events page then!

    It’s All in the Build

    Suitable cover is often one of the most limited habitat components on a farm or in a residential area, according to University of Missouri Extension. While many birds nest in tree cavities, providing nest boxes while waiting for trees to mature can make these environments more habitable for cavity-nesting wildlife. Some wildlife species, including Eastern bluebirds and wood ducks, have benefited from the increased use of nest boxes. Although wildlife or nest boxes are not a replacement for the habitat provided by hardwoods and other tree species, they can be used as a wildlife habitat management practice to supplement natural cavities and thus enhance a property's attractiveness to cavity-nesting species, while complementing the landscape design.

    Each wildlife species has preferences for the type and location of its nest cavity, some of which will overlap among species. Wildlife box plans and designs for most cavity-nesting wildlife species are available from a variety of sources. The appearance of boxes may vary considerably, but their basic function remains the same: to attract the wildlife species of interest to your property.

    A properly maintained nest box can last for years. To maximize its value, youy must install a box with the correct specifications for the desired species, and install it at the proper height and in the proper location—near food, water and other cover needed by the desired species.

    University of Missouri Extension reminds homeowners to erect nest boxes well before the average start of the nesting season because some species set up a nesting territory three to four weeks before laying eggs.

    Discouraging Predators

    Although nest boxes provide nesting opportunities for many native birds, they also can make easy targets for predators, according to Cornell Lab of Ornithology. Common predators of nests in nest boxes include raccoons, cats, snakes and squirrels.

    To keep cats and raccoons out of nest boxes:

    • Install a roof that extends five inches beyond the front of the box will prevent these animals from easily reaching into the entrance hole from above.
    • Mount your box high enough and away from trees so cats cannot spring to the top of the box in a single leap.
    • Attach predator guards to your boxes to prevent these animals from climbing up from below. Three commonly used guards are shown below.
    • Keep pet cats indoors.
    • Do not feed feral cats. This will encourage them to stay in the area.
    • Avoid leaving out pet food or bird seed that can attract predators to an area.

    Snakes are occasional predators of eggs and nestlings. A conical metal collar mounted below the box will prevent most snakes from climbing up from below. Pole-mounted nest boxes should be placed away from trees to prevent snakes from accessing them from overhead branches. If your box is mounted to a tree or utility pole, use an acetate sheet wrapped around the trunk or pole.

    Squirrels can also damage nest boxes. By chewing at entrance holes to enlarge them, they make it easier for themselves and other predators to enter. To curb this, cut a hole the same size as the nest box entrance hole in a rectangular piece of sheet metal and attach it to the front of the nest box so that both holes line up.

    It’s important to remember that native predators can also benefit birds; for example, a ratsnake may consume only a few birds’ nests a year but will also consume many more rodents, which play a large role in nest predation, according to Cornell Lab of Ornithology. Some birds even selectively nest near predators because it affords them some protection against other smaller predators (this is called a protective nesting association). Additionally, state laws typically protect native mammals and snakes, and permits are needed to cull them (translocating wildlife is generally not recommended due to the risk of spreading disease).

    Maintenance

    Both Cornell Lab of Ornithology and University of Missouri Extension recommend cleaning out a nest box at the end of the season by removing nesting material and scrubbing the interior of the box. If the nest box is soiled with fecal matter, you can clean it with a solution of one part bleach to 10 parts water. Some people opt to clean a nest box out after every brood, but it’s imperative that this is done when there is absolutely no sign of breeding activity in the box; if you’re unsure whether the box is being actively used, it’s best to leave it alone.

    You can leave your box up over the winter and allow it to be used as a roosting place for birds that don’t migrate, mice or squirrels or, if you prefer, you can seal off birdhouses to prevent unwanted winter tenants. Others render the boxes unusable by propping the door open.

    Enjoying the View

    Lastly, if locating a nest box in your backyard, be sure to erect it in an area that allows you to easily view the activity. Evaluate whether the nest box is being used and whether it is being used by the desired species. If not, reconsider the nest box design and placement, and evict unwanted residents.

    Sources:

    Cornell Lab of Ornithology, NestWatch.

    University of Missouri Extension, G9413, Nest Boxes for Wildlife.

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    Bug of the Month: The Snow Flea

    by Janis Butler, Master Gardener Volunteer

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    Sometimes snow looks disappointingly dirty, as though someone sprinkled black pepper on it. And you might think, wistfully, how those flakes, beautiful when fresh-fallen, so quickly lose their charm to grit and grime.

    But wait! Maybe it’s not dirt. Are those little bits of debris moving? Jumping? If so, they might be snow fleas, Hypogastrura harveyi or H. nivicola, the most common species. If you see them, fear not: they are harmless—not really fleas at all—and, in fact, contribute mightily to ecosystem health in their role as decomposers. They often appear as if by magic on warm winter days, forming tight clusters and drifting in waves across the surface of the snow in mysterious migrations that have been measured as far as 25 meters.

    Snow fleas are not the prettiest critters in the world, but they are arguably among the most interesting (and they have a lot of competition). Their name comes from their ability to jump like fleas. They’re actually a type of springtail, not even considered insects, but rather in a class (Collembola) related to crabs and lobsters. The scientific jury is still out on this classification, however.

    Snow fleas are very small, only about 1/10th of an inch long, and dark blue-gray. They lack wings but they sure can jump! Unlike true fleas, who use their powerful hind legs to jump, snow fleas use a forked appendage called a furcula (little fork), located under their abdomens and held in place by clasp-like hooks until the snow flea is ready to leap. When released, the furcula snaps downward with great force, propelling the snow flea high into the air, often 100 times the length of its body, high and fast enough to avoid predators. When it lands, sticky anal sacs adhere to the ground or snow and prevent uncontrolled bouncing.

    Snow fleas have what we might consider poor eyesight, but which is quite adequate for the lives they live, mostly underground. They don’t have compound eyes like many insects but instead have two eye patches, one on either side of the head, each with eight ocelli. Ocelli, a type of simple eye, are used to calculate the angle of the sun and help snow fleas orient themselves on snowy fields lacking landmarks. These eyes also calculate the sun’s elevation angle immediately before making a jump so their furcula can send them in the right direction to avoid a potential predator. When the sun is obscured by clouds, they use polarized light instead.

    Orienting to the sun’s rays also helps with temperature control. Snow fleas can adjust their body position for maximum heat absorption on cold days, or to avoid the sun when it gets too hot. So those “simple” eyes aren’t so simple after all!

    Snow flea life cycle
    Snow fleas mate in early spring, when the snow is melting, and the female lays her eggs in the warming soil. In about three weeks, the eggs hatch and the nymphs emerge to spend most of their lives in the soil and leaf litter. They go through several molts as they grow larger and are full-size by fall.

    Although they lead quiet, inactive lives for most of the winter, they start to emerge through breaks in the snow on warm days, especially in late winter. That’s when we notice them. What are they doing? Eating, of course, and mating.

    As omnivores, snow fleas eat decaying leaves, pollen, mold, fungi, bacteria, pollen, algae, lichens, insect feces and microscopic animals like nematodes and protozoans. During most of the year, snow flea meals are found in the soil or leaf litter, but even in fairly fresh snow, they find tiny bits of organic matter by following chemical cues emitted by bacteria on the food source. This makes them important players in keeping winter ecosystems healthy.

    Winter is a great time to be active because there are fewer predators, who might lack snow fleas’ high tolerance for cold temperatures. In winter, snow fleas produce the amino acid glycine, a rich antifreeze protein which prevents ice crystals from forming in their internal tissues.

    How to help snow fleas
    Snow fleas are so tiny that you’ve probably encountered thousands in your garden without knowing it. If they get into your house, however, they are more noticeable and less welcome. They’re attracted to moisture so the first steps are to turn on the dehumidifiers, fix leaky pipes, remove mold and mildew (food sources for snow fleas!) and generally improve ventilation wherever you see them. Keep organic debris away from your house’s foundation.

    The kindest way to remove them indoors or on a patio is to sweep them gently into a dustpan and release them into a pile of leaves. (Watch out for jumpers!) Or use a vacuum cleaner and empty it outside. They do not bite or sting, but they don’t belong in houses. Remember that they’re important partners in ecosystem health, so releasing them outside will enable them to do their job.

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    4-H News: NatureCraft Club Makes Paper

    from Brandy Keenan, 4-H Educator

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    CCE’s new 4-H NatureCraft Club got their hands dirty making paper for Valentine’s at their last meeting. 

    Youth Members mixed shredded recycled paper and water in a blender until it was a mushy pulp. Then they squeezed as much water out of the pulp as possible using a sieve and a bowl. They really got their physical and sensory muscles working! The drained pulp was then placed into a bin with water and that’s when it got fun! Members added glitter and mixed it all up before using their mold and deckle to scoop up and drain the pulp. Once the mold seemed to have drained, members flipped the paper over onto a piece of cloth and used a sponge to suck up as much water as possible. This was then brought home to dry for at least 24 hours.

    Another method of paper making had the members molding the dried pulp on a piece of plastic into heart or circle shapes.

    Whichever way they did it, it was a great deal of recycled sensory fun!

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    Tilly Tally Spots 159 Birds During Winter Bird Count

    by Karen Heller, Master Gardener Volunteer

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    The artfully named “Tilly Tally” Winter Bird Count event at Tilly Foster Farm Forest offered attendees a guided opportunity to view and identify birds. Experts and volunteers from Bedford Audubon and Soldiers2Scientists helped to attendees identify woodpeckers of all sizes and types, several species of sparrows, hawks, a bald eagle, vultures, cardinals, blue jays, juncos, starlings, grackles, crows and ravens circling, and perhaps the star of the day: a hunting American kestrel perched high in a tree looking for lunch in the open fields. In total, 29 different species were identified and 159 individual birds counted.

    In addition to birding, the forest provided us with a chance to view tracks and signs of bird and wildlife behavior marked in the snow. Hikers observed deer beds, tracks, and signs of bird and wildlife feeding, bathing and foraging. Birds bathe year-round to keep their feathers clean, which helps them stay warm. They bathe in snow as well as winter streams, explained John Hannan, President of the Bedford Audubon Board of Directors.

    Conversation was free flowing on subjects including forest ecology, invasive species and the food sources of the creatures that overwinter in Putnam County. We learned that different species of overwintering birds often forage together in what is known as “mixed flocks,” taking advantage of the holes created by woodpeckers to sleep together at night - especially the smallest birds - keeping each other warm. They were also observed on Saturday sheltering in the chicken shed and other Tilly Foster Farm man made structures.

    Hikers got a first winter look at the one-acre CCE forest regeneration project funded by a NYS Department of Environmental Conservation Community Reforestation grant. Invasive species in the area will be removed. The area will be replanted with native species over an initial 5-year period by CCE and volunteers. During the restoration of the forest, Soldiers2Scientists will train Veterans as citizen scientists to collect biodiversity data, build bird boxes, and plant seedlings into the forest. Soldiers2Scientists founder, Mike Cohn, is known as an expert in the American Kestrel, our countries’ smallest falcon. The first time he saw one it fought off two red tail hawks and a flock of crows defending its territory. The first time I saw one was at the Tilly Tally. It was an exciting addition to my life list.

    If you are interested in visiting the site and learning more about birds, CCE with its partners Soldiers2Scientists and Bedford Audubon will be hosting an Owl Prowl on the Evening of Friday February 20th, and a Spring Migratory Bird Count on the 28th of March. If you can’t join us outside, join CCE’s Putnam Pollinator Pathway volunteers for the “Gardening for Birds and Pollinators” webinar, February 4th and learn how you can turn your landscape into a vibrant ecosystem.

    Photo of a red-bellied woodpecker by Mike Cohn, Soldiers2Scientists

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    Celebrate Valentine’s Day with a Delicious Dessert

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    from Josephine Quiocho, Nutrition Educator

    This recipe is special enough for a Valentine’s Day dessert and simple enough for an everyday snack. Fruit, nuts and chocolate. Do we need to say more?

    Fudgy Fruit

    Ingredients:

    • 1/8 cup chocolate chips (or 2 Tablespoons semi-sweet chips)
    • 2 bananas (large, peeled and cut into quarters)
    • 8 strawberries (large)
    • 1/4 cup peanuts (chopped, unsalted)

    Directions:
    1. Wash hands with soap and water.
    2. Place chocolate chips in a small microwave safe bowl. Heat on high for 10 seconds and stir. Repeat until chocolate is melted, about 30 seconds.
    3. Place fruit on a small tray covered with a piece of waxed paper. Use a spoon to drizzle the melted chocolate on top of the fruit.
    4. Sprinkle the fruit with chopped nuts.
    5. Cover the fruit and place in the refrigerator for 10 minutes or until the chocolate hardens. Serve chilled.

    Find the recipe at MyPlate: https://www.myplate.gov/recipes/fudgy-fruit

    Source: Healthy Recipes, CalFresh Healthy Living

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    Last updated February 2, 2026