Happenings October 2026

October 2026

Fall is Garlic Season: Plant Now for Delicious Summer Harvest

Bug of the Month: Lady Beetle

Leaves are Treasure, Not Trash

Root Crop Storage Considerations

4-H News: Celebrating National 4-H Week and Registering for 4-H Clubs

SNAP-ED New York Programming Comes to an End 

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Fall is Garlic Season: Plant Now for a Delicious Summer Harvest 

From Paula Ream, Master Gardener, Penn State Extension

Fall is the best time to plant garlic—a good three weeks prior to the ground freezing (mid- to late-October), so the roots have a chance to develop, but not poke through the surface before winter. As a raised bed gardener, I reserve a new spot every fall after removing all the summer garden debris and amending my soil with compost for the winter. Garlic is a species in the onion genus– Allium—and is closely related to onions, shallots, leeks, and chives. These plants require at least two years, if not more, between successive plantings to allow the soil to recover. Garlic plants are usually hardy and not affected by many pests or diseases. They do require full sun and loamy soil.

Select cloves for planting based on your preference for flavor and use. Cloves purchased from grocery stores are not a good choice. They may be varieties unsuitable for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Find a reputable dealer and choose only clean, sound cloves. Local farmers who grow garlic are an excellent source of seed. You will need to break your bulbs down, but no more than a day before planting, so that the root nodules do not dry out and are able to set roots quickly. Sort the cloves and reserve the largest for planting; smaller cloves can be used in recipes. Larger cloves will yield larger bulbs at harvest time.

With your soil amended, plant your cloves, root side down and upright. You can plant a single row or several rows with four to eight inches between plants, planting at least two inches below the surface. Mulch with a good four inches of straw or shredded leaves. If the planting area is in a windy site, lay branches over the bed to hold the straw in place.

Fertilize in March and control weeds throughout the growing season. Garlic needs adequate water to develop, so irrigate when rain has not been forthcoming. In June, scapes (the elongated flower stalks) will appear, emerging through the top of the foliage.

To improve bulb size, remove the scapes while they are young by cutting or snapping them off where they emerge from the top leaves. Harvest scapes before they begin to straighten and become stiff. The garlic bulbs are ready to be harvested from early to mid-July. If harvested too early, the bulb size will be smaller. If harvested too late, the bulb will split. Harvest when the leaves begin to brown and at least 4 leaves are still partly green. Reduce watering as this time approaches. Instead, use a spade or shovel to lift the bulb from the ground. The bulbs are tender and easily bruised when first harvested. Use immediately or cure for long-term storage. To cure, allow them to dry and harden in a well-ventilated, shaded area for a few weeks. Then, clean by brushing away loose dirt. Remove one layer of the bulb wrapper, trim the roots close to the wrapper, and cut the tops off 1 inch from the bulb.

If you plan on planting garlic again next season, save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in the fall.

Photo: "German Red" garlic is especially suited to cold winters. Diane Diffenderfer, Penn State.

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Bug of the Month: Lady Beetles

by Janis Butler, Master Gardener Volunteer

First things first: the name. A ladybug is not really a bug, except in the vernacular. In the world of taxonomy, the order of insects called True Bugs (Hemiptera) does not include our black-spotted orange friend. Rather, it belongs in the order Coleoptera: the beetles. Rest assured, however, that those of us accustomed to calling it a ladybug will be forgiven for continuing to do so. For now, though, we’ll call her a Lady Beetle.

Almost all Lady Beetles are beneficial and welcome in our gardens. There is, though, a question about the Asian Lady Beetle ( Harmonia axyridis), originally imported as an aid to food growers, but now better known for congregating in our homes in winter. Asian Lady Beetles undoubtedly provide the garden services for which we value our native Lady Beetles, but they also compete with the natives: they’re bigger and more aggressive, thereby depleting the food supplies on which the natives depend. They carry certain parasites that are harmless to themselves but lethal or debilitating to native species. And they emerge earlier in spring, gobbling up the aphid supply before natives become active, and even eating native Lady Beetle eggs.

On the other hand, Asian Lady Beetles are voracious consumers of aphids, leafhoppers, mites, whitefly eggs and nymphs, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, and many other garden pests, earning consideration as a beneficial insect. The adults can consume 100 aphids per day; the larvae, 600 to 1,200, during their larval stage. With the typical two generations per season, each one could remove 5,000 pests from your garden.

Native Lady Beetles can equal these numbers, but the Asian Lady Beetles can outcompete them. The official New York State insect, the Nine-Spotted Lady Beetle ( Coccinella novemnotata), once plentiful, is now on the “critically imperiled” list of the New York State Heritage Program. Other formerly common species like the Convergent Lady Beetle ( Hippodamia convergens ) and the Two-Spotted Lady Beetle (Adalia bipunctata) are becoming increasingly rare. Along with habitat loss, pesticides, and climate change, the Asian Lady Beetle is widely viewed as a contributing factor in the decline of these and other native Lady Beetles.

In addition to its size and aggressiveness, the Asian Lady Beetle is free, in North America, of the specialized parasites and other predators that keep its population in check in Asia, where it evolved. They also secrete a foul-smelling fluid from their leg joints when threatened, more unpalatable than similar secretions from native species, so their numbers are not kept in check by birds and other generalist predators.

In contrast, our native Lady Beetles play vital, specialized roles in local ecosystems as natural predators, bioindicators, and food web participants, providing essential protein-rich food for birds, small mammals, spiders, and other insects, many of whom will not eat Asian Lady Beetles. For example, only swifts and swallows eat Asian Lady Beetles regularly. And shrews and moles, which readily eat native Lady Beetles, avoid the Asian Lady Beetles.

Life cycle

Asian and native Lady Beetles have similar life cycles, beginning with tiny yellow or orange eggs laid in clusters on stems and the undersides of leaves, usually near colonies of aphids or other prey. The females may lay 200 to 1,000 eggs during a season. The eggs hatch in two to five days, and the larvae that emerge look like miniature alligators, usually black with a few orange spots. They begin to eat immediately, specializing in soft-bodied insects, including eggs, nymphs, and larvae, and growing up to 3/8” before pupating.

Pupation takes about two weeks after a hard case forms, protecting the insect while it transforms into an adult. The emerging adult may eat 10 to 50 aphids per day, less than the larva, but it lives much longer — up to a year — so during its adult lifetime, it surpasses its larval consumption rate.

Why do Asian Lady Beetles, not natives, invade homes in winter?

When cool weather approaches, all adult Lady Beetles begin to seek shelter. In their native habitats, Asian Lady Beetles overwinter in warm, sunny places, particularly south-facing rocky cliffs with crevices in which to hide. In our part of the world, human houses and other buildings mimic these sunlit surfaces, especially those with south-facing walls and light colors. They make their way inside seeking warm places to spend the winter. Once a few beetles find a cozy crack or corner of a ceiling, they release pheromones (chemical signals) that attract multitudes of others to the same spot. They do not eat wood or fabric, nor do they build nests or reproduce indoors. They’re simply there to hibernate.

Native lady beetles evolved in a different climate and must overwinter outdoors, under natural cover in rotting logs, under rocks, and especially in piles of leaf litter. Like the Asians, they often congregate when a good spot is found. 

How to ID Asian Lady Beetles?

Fortunately, this is relatively easy. Asian Lady Beetles have a distinctive black “M” shape on a white background, just behind their heads. They often have nineteen spots, but the number varies between none and 21, so spot-counting is not a reliable species indicator. Just look for the ‘M’. And they are the only species likely to be crowding your windowsills come cold weather.

Native Lady Beetle species, of which there are 40 to 50 in the Northeast, can also have varying numbers of spots and even varying colors (red, orange, yellow, tan, pink, black, white) as well as varying markings behind their heads.

Are Asian Lady Beetles friends or foes?

The answer is both. For those of us unhappy about Asian Lady Beetles collecting along our windowsills in cold weather, there is some good news. According to Cornell's 'Biological Control: A Guide to Natural Enemies in North America', "Scientists predict that multicolored Asian lady beetle populations will become more balanced when its prey numbers decrease and Harmonia itself falls prey to native natural enemies."

How can we help native Lady Beetles compete?

Provide winter shelter. Rethink fall clean-up and leave leaves alone. Leaf litter is a favorite winter habitat of native Lady Beetles as well as countless other critters. Tree bark, mulch, and rock piles are also good choices. If you must clean up fallen leaves, rake them gently to places on your property where they will be undisturbed.

Plant where they’ll find food. The more you plant, the better chance the natives have of competing with the non-natives. They search plants for prey but lady beetles are also pollinators, especially if prey is scarce. Pollen and nectar supply additional essential nutrients which they cannot get from soft-bodied insects alone. Especially plant early bloomers like sweet alyssum, calendula, and yarrow, and late bloomers like goldenrod, asters, and sedum, to provide food in our lengthening seasons. Consider sunflowers, spicebush, spirea, water lilies, carrot family plants, species with bowl-shaped flowers or sweet or musty odors.

Don’t buy commercially sold ladybugs. Usually the batches consist of wild-harvested native Lady Beetles like the Convergent Lady Beetle that are gathered while the insects are hibernating, then shipped around the country. Removing them from their native overwintering sites depletes wild populations. And besides, they may fly away when they emerge from hibernation, following homing instincts and leaving your yard.

Spray insecticides judiciously. Avoid spraying when pollinators like Lady Beetles are present. Spray only for targeted pests and follow IPM (Integrated Pest Management) guidelines: https://cals.cornell.edu/integrated-pest-management.

Photo credits: Left, Asian Lady Beetle (Harmonia axyridis) by Ryan Hodnett via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0). Right, Nine-spotted Lady Beetle (Coccinella novemnotata) by Todd Ugine/Cornell University.

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Leaves Are Treasure, Not Trash

from Annette MaCoy, Master Gardener, Penn State Extension

Fallen leaves are a tremendous resource for the gardener, not something to be discarded or hauled off. With just a little effort, they can be turned into an excellent and free mulch for every part of your landscape.

Keep the Leaves

If you have mature trees in your landscape, every autumn those trees present you with a gift of great value. For some, those leaves may seem like an unwanted nuisance, piling up in your beds or on your lawn, a battle to be fought and won when your local municipality or trash hauler takes them away. We, even scientists and researchers, use unflattering terms, leaf "litter" or "duff," to describe them.

It seems strange that in the fall, we rake leaves to put into plastic bags or to the curbside to be hauled away for disposal somewhere else, at a cost to us, and then in the spring, we spend more money on plastic bags of mulch or compost to add to our garden. Or, we go to a local facility to haul home compost sourced from many different places. The problem with that? You do not know the quality of that compost or what may be in it – contaminants, trash, or pests, such as invasive earthworms, that you will regret introducing into your landscape.

It is time to rethink our attitude towards leaves, for the benefit of our own gardens as well as that of the surrounding environment and its inhabitants. If you have the leaves available, why not use what nature provides to restore the natural process of plant nutrient recycling in your yard? If the wind blows leaves from your neighbor's yard into yours, why not thank your neighbors for the free garden gold? Leaves, with some patience but very little effort on your part, can be turned into an excellent soil amendment or mulch that costs nothing but is worth everything to your plants.

There are two basic approaches to recycling leaves. One is shredding the leaves to make mulch or to let them break down into the lawn, and the other is piling whole leaves to transform into leaf mold. From the standpoint of effort and the environment, the latter approach is preferable, but either method is better than removing the leaves from your property.

Shred the Leaves

For shredding leaves, a lawn mower is the only tool needed. A mulching mower works best, but a regular mower will do the job, although not quite as effectively. Simply mow over the leaves on the lawn to shred them, walking or riding slowly to give the mower blades time to chop the leaves. This is easier to do if the leaves are relatively dry and not piled too thickly, so do not wait until all the leaves have fallen to start mulch-mowing them. You may need to go back over the leaves in a cross direction from the first cut to shred the leaves more finely. A layer up to about one-half inch in depth is beneficial to the lawn.

Shredded leaves decay much more quickly than whole leaves. The small leaf pieces on the lawn break down, adding organic matter and returning essential plant nutrients to the soil to be taken up by the grass. Research conducted at Michigan State University found no negative effects of mulching leaf litter into the turf. The quality of the grass improved, with fewer broadleaf weeds; the quality of the soil improved, even to the extent of providing a softer surface for sports; and it had no effect on the soil pH, whether oak or maple leaves were used.

Shredded leaves can also be applied as a 2 to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch around trees and shrubs or on perennial beds. Because they are shredded, they tend to mat down less than whole leaves; and watering the leaf mulch after application will also help it to stay in place. The leaf mulch will help to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and keep down weeds. Weeds that do appear are easier to pull because the soil surface remains friable and soft. As the leaves break down, essential nutrients are recycled in the soil to become available again to the plants from whence they came.

Pile the Leaves

The second method of recycling leaves is turning them into leaf mold. Essentially decayed leaves, leaf mold is similar to compost; it is dark brown in color, with a pleasant earthy smell and a crumbly texture. Although it is not high in nutrients, it is an excellent soil amendment that improves the structure of the soil, increases soil water retention, returns essential elements to the soil, and benefits the myriad organisms in the soil – fungi, bacteria, and other microbes, as well as tiny mites and insects – that decompose organic matter. It can also be used as mulch or added to potting soil. And unlike compost or manure, leaf mold is mostly weed-free.

To make leaf mold, form a pile of leaves, pack them down, water them, and wait a couple of years. Although not essential, a wood or wire bin, 3 to 6 feet in diameter and at least 3 feet in height, helps keep the leaves contained. Another possibility is to use a large plastic bag; I use old trash cans. Fill the bag or can with leaves, moisten the leaves, close it up loosely (allow some airflow), and let it sit.

You can also just pile excess leaves in an out-of-the-way corner of the yard. However, if you have a wooded area that already has a layer of fallen leaves, do not pile more leaves on top of that. There are many small insects and animals, including firefly larvae, overwintering insects, reptiles, amphibians, birds, and small mammals, that make use of that leaf layer for shelter, habitat, food, and protection. Dumping more leaves can disturb or disrupt the natural depth (6 to 12 inches) at which they survive.

If you have a compost bin, you may have too many leaves in the fall to fit in the bin, so stockpiling those leaves in a separate pile is a good way to save this valuable resource. In the spring and summer, you can transfer some of your leaf stockpile into your compost bin as you need "brown" materials to layer with fresh "green" materials; the remainder of the leaf stockpile will gradually shrink in size as the leaves slowly decay to form leaf mold.

You can speed up the decay process from years to 6 to 12 months by shredding the leaves, turning the pile occasionally, adding water occasionally, or covering the pile with a tarp, but it will happen eventually, even if you do nothing.

Making leaf mold is outrageously easy. It is a task that rewards the lazy gardener (like me) and teaches the patience of nature (or the nature of patience) to the impatient gardener. For every gardener, autumn leaves on and off the tree are not just pretty, they are a gift of nature waiting to happen.

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Root Crop Storage Considerations

from Robert Hadad, Cornell Vegetable Program Specialist

Proper vegetable storage is more than just boxing up produce and sticking it in a refrigerated space. Losses from improper handling and storage can range from 10% -40%,that is money being tossed away after all the hard work of growing and harvesting the crops. With attention to some details, losses can be greatly reduced.

Harvest timing and proper handling are essential first steps. Once the crop is harvested, it is hard to improve quality in storage.

Crop maturity at harvest is important. Baby vegetables don’t store as well as mature crops. For example, new potatoes have a shorter shelf life than full-sized tubers harvested after vines die back. Carrots, garlic, and onions store best at full size (and for garlic and onions after the tops dry and bend over). Sweet potatoes should be harvested after foliage dries. Beets should be harvested at 2–3 inches in diameter (not too big), and timing should align with the variety’s days to maturity.

When harvesting take care not to damage skin, either with mechanical harvesting or loading, transport, and handling. Beets and carrots should be topped, leaving no more than an inch of stem. Garlic and onion stems should be trimmed to a few inches and shortened after curing. Rutabagas and turnips stems should be cut close to the root.

For long term storage, avoid washing or removing dried soil. Course, dry soil helps protect root crop skins. Scrubbing may cause injuries that allow rots to enter during storage. Roots can be cleaned just before sale.

Some root crops benefit from “curing” after field harvest before going into storage (exceptions are carrots, beets, turnips, and rutabagas). Curing involves exposing roots to warm temperatures and good air circulation to dry the skin, heal over superficial wounds, and help seal skin from respiration moisture loss. Temperatures in the upper 70Fs to upper 80Fs along with good air movement (open air or with fans) speeds the process. Spread curing roots into a single layer to avoid damp spots.

Maintaining crop quality in long term storage depends on properly operating coolers, consistent appropriate storage temperatures and humidity levels, and adequate air flow.

Coolers should be well-insulated and free from condensation or dripping water from the condenser. Air exchange is important: coolers can have manual vents or if their door opens several times a day, that can also provide air exchange. Tightly sealed coolers save energy but need frequent air exchange to remove the CO2 and ethylene that comes from the natural respiration of stored produce.

Storage bins should be kept away from the walls to help with air flow. Place several thermometers throughout the cooler, especially when bins are densely packed. Monitor temperatures for cold or warm spots, as dead air space can create freezing temperature pockets. If uneven temperatures are found, add small fans to help with air movement.

Understand specific crops’ temperature and humidity needs

• Beets, carrots, horseradish, celeriac, parsnips, winter radish, salsify, turnips, and rutabagas: stay close to 32°F, 95–99% humidity

• Onions and garlic: about 32°F, but note lower 65–70% humidity

• Potatoes: 38–42°F, 90–95% humidity (If potatoes get too cold, an internal black ring forms around the flesh just under the skin.)

• Sweet potatoes: note warmer than potatoes at 55–60°F, 85–90% humidity

Maintaining humidity levels is a challenge. Some growers store roots in large plastic bags inside tote bins. These bags can be left open or perforated to raise the humidity levels within the bags without reducing all the airflow. Monitor closely to make sure it remains humid enough butdoesn’t excessively condense. If bins are stacked, regularly check bottom bins. Use multiple humidity meters around the cooler and keep tabs on the levels.

Even when doing everything that is needed, some roots won’t last. Scout the cooler frequently, especially the longer the roots are stored. Inspect for off odors, puddling on the floor, or a plastic bag with more condensation in it than the others. Remove anything that has mold or is getting soft to prevent spreading.

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4-H News: Celebrating National 4-H Week and Registering for 4-H Clubs

from Brandy Keenan, 4-H Educator

4-H is joining millions of youth, families, volunteers, and alumni across the nation to celebrate National 4-H Week, running from October 4–10.

As part of the nation’s largest youth development organization, local 4-H programs reach thousands of young people through hands-on learning in STEM, leadership, agriculture, and civic engagement. This year’s national theme, “Beyond Ready,” highlights the organization’s goal to help prepare 10 million youth for work and life by 2030.

“National 4-H Week is a powerful reminder that young people are already leading in extraordinary ways,” said Jill Bramble, president and CEO of the National 4-H Council. Locally, members are gaining confidence through public speaking, community service projects, and hands-on skill-building.

Join the Celebration

The community is invited to participate in special celebratory days during the week:

• Go Green Day (Monday, Oct. 5): Wear green clothing, hats, or 4-H gear to show your support and state spirit. Use the hashtags #4HBeyondReady and #National4HWeek.
• Thankful Thursday (Thursday, Oct. 8, 2026): A day dedicated to recognizing community impact, mentors, and thanking those who have made a positive difference in local 4-H experiences.

Registration is Open for our 4-H Clubs!
Registration for Putnam County 4-H is officially open now through Oct. 31. Parents and guardians can register their youth by visiting the 4-H page on our website.

We offer 10 clubs for youth and are excited to have several new clubs this year!

Hay You! Jr. Agriculture Club is for ages 5-10. Members will learn about raising chickens by taking care of a chick and starting seeds in a greenhouse for a “chicken garden.” This year-long project ends with homing the chickens at a local farm and planting the chicken garden. The following year youth will be able to sell their chicken eggs to raise funds for the club. The Hay You! 4-H Club at Tilly Foster Farm will be a livestock and agricultural focused club. Members will learn how to care for and handle livestock as well as basic animal science— digestive and skeletal systems, nutrition and livestocks' place in agriculture, our food systems and the environment. 

Top Focus Jr. Equine Club is for ages 6-11. Members will get hands-on experience with all aspects of horsemanship, including grooming, stable chores, general care of horses and farm management. This is a non-riding club.

Reel Rangers Fishing Club is for ages 9+. Members will develop fishing skills, learn about aquatic ecosystems, and fish the waters in and around Putnam County.

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SNAP-Ed New York Programming Comes to an End

from Josephine Quiocho, Nutrition Educator

After more than 30 years of providing nutrition education and supporting healthy food access in communities across New York State, the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program Education (SNAP-Ed) New York initiative formally concluded operations Sept. 30.

The conclusion of SNAP-Ed NY follows the elimination of federal funding for SNAP-Ed under federal legislation enacted in 2025. In New York State, remaining funds allowed for a gradual wind-down of programming through 2026. 

As a federally funded program, SNAP-Ed NY combined practical, evidence-based nutrition education with broader efforts to make healthy choices easier and more accessible. Working alongside schools, food pantries, farmers markets, older adult programs, healthcare and social service organizations, and many other community partners, SNAP-Ed NY supported changes to policies, systems, and community environments.

In 2025 alone, SNAP-Ed NY reached approximately 1.8 million New Yorkers through more than 35,000 workshops delivered at over 900 sites and in collaboration with more than 1,500 community partners. Participants learned hands-on skills related to preparing healthy meals, shopping on a budget, increasing fruit and vegetable consumption, being physically active, and accessing nutritious foods. Among participants evaluated, 58% improved their fruit intake and 58% improved their vegetable intake.

The end of SNAP-Ed funding represents more than the conclusion of individual classes and programs. Over many years, SNAP-Ed NY built relationships and infrastructure within communities across the state, connecting nutrition education with trusted organizations and resources that support the health and well-being of New Yorkers.

SNAP-Ed NY extends their deepest gratitude to the educators, community partners, and participants who have made SNAP-Ed NY a meaningful and impactful program. Their contributions have helped New Yorkers build practical skills, connect with resources and make healthy choices for themselves and their families.

As SNAP-Ed NY programming comes to a close, we encourage community members to stay connected with local organizations for information about available programs and resources. Existing SNAP-Ed NY materials and resources will remain available online for as long as possible.

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Last updated October 1, 2026